Hospitality is in Nicolle Hahn’s blood – she grew up living in her parents’ hotels in country South Australia. She followed in their footsteps, managing hotels in Adelaide, but changed tack later in life, taking up an apprenticeship at the Hilton International in Adelaide.
After six years, she decided if she was going to be working long hours in food, she wanted to do it for herself. So, in 2017, Hahn and her designer partner Julie Pieda started looking for a venue, and stumbled upon a ‘filthy’ 1960s industrial warehouse in Manton Street, Hindmarsh, an inner west suburb of Adelaide. “We surveyed the scene, took in the old pepper tree growing through the wall and realised we had found the place,” Hahn says. “There was a real need in Manton Street for a social hub,” she continues. “There were a lot of businesses and a lot of residential here, but there was nowhere for them to go and grab a coffee, or to have a business meeting.”
After three years, Pony and Cole is now something of an institution in the city, frequented as much by locals as those in the city and eastern suburbs who’ve got wind of its uniqueness. They are drawn to the cafe by its good energy and the breakfast, brunch and lunch menus, where traditional dishes are served with what Hahn describes as a “cheeky little twist and some out-there stuff”.
Hahn’s regularly changing menu highlights fresh produce, and the majority of goods are made inhouse – from the sausages to the barbecue sauce, and the hash browns to a cheddar and jalapeño bread (topped with poached eggs, pork belly and sriracha hollandaise).
“We don’t try and copy what’s going on around us,” she says. “If it’s been done to death, we don’t want to do it. Sorry, no smashed avo on toast here.” And despite not offering a menu of typical Aussie cafe fare, Hahn’s approach is one that has worked. “We found our tribe, it’s eclectic and it’s everybody.”
When COVID-19 restrictions began to impact the area, loyal customers came by to let her know they wouldn’t be able to visit for a while, and have returned in droves since lockdown has lifted. Hahn also emphasises the importance of working with Adelaide businesses to source produce and products for Pony and Cole. The cafe serves its own blend of beans from Patio Coffee Roasters, just a few clicks down the road, and its traditional-style kombucha is also made nearby, by Skull.
That holistic community focus extends to the space the cafe is housed in. Pony and Cole acts as a social and creative hub, thanks to an attached gallery, a design studio and printmaking studio, which all reside in the same 1960s-era warehouse. Hahn even offers apprenticeships to aspiring chefs – a rarity in Adelaide cafes. “They get a well-rounded education. We change the menu around to upskill the apprentices, and try to give them a wide range of experiences, and build their confidence. Giving back to our community and our staff is very important to me. Apprentices are the next generation: we want them to be outstanding.”
Follow Nicolle’s work on Instagram @ponyandcole
